Sunday 1 March 2015

The Lost Home - Mumbai

There must be so many times you must have visited a new place for work, for holiday or sometimes plain return visits to meet family or friends and when you come back to your habitat: you have lots of memories; good bad or ugly. You remember them for a few more days or months may be, upload photos online, keep talking about them and sharing your own list of do's and don'ts and then one day you get back to routine and commitments without slightest of remembrance or impression left of that place on your mind or life, until you dig into your old albums.

When I come to think of my memories related to travel for work and otherwise, I remember many - cities, towns, homesteads – some that I don't even remember the names of! I often shift base for work and long stay, in the last 4 years I called two cities my own, both in their own rights and now is again that time of my life when I am just a month old in this new bustling city, this time a new country on top!

Guess this homeless feeling is miserable and the more I talk about the leaving of my last home instead of going gaga over this new setting (which is one of its kind to get gaga over, really!) the more greeting my new home feels, like last time!

I never thought I belonged to this place and yet a part of me belonged there always. It is Amchi Mumbai! Rightly so!

My first memory of Mumbai - of a winter vacation trip with family is vague, sick and bland! The city where roads had as many potholes as the number of people, tall and narrow high-rises in the labyrinth of a dank maze of ever-narrowing ways covered by a canopy of smog. I always loathed the idea of holiday in a city of man-made high-rises juxtaposed against the never-ending slums. The place looked like a rut to me. The local trains were infuriating, the yelling and elbowing crowd was anything but a sight to watch and the heat in the month of December was unbelievable! We did all the touristy stuff right from munching on the vara pav to visiting Haji Ali and Mount Mary Church (when my mind kept trying to justify the need for visiting these strange places, as in we never go to a church or a mosque on any given day in our home town, for heaven’s sake!). We strolled along the marine lines and mom exclaimed at one such point, ‘this is the most beautiful place on this earth, wish I could settle down here forever!’ I wasn't sure of mom’s announcement that time as I personally hated everything at that point of time and cursed myself over and over again for not insisting on staying back home or agreeing to the stupidest idea of going for a picnic to the local zoo! Anyway, deep down, I knew that I and my sister (the two most submissive girls everyone in the family would give examples of) would never disobey our parents’ decision, not in this lifetime!

In our last 48 hours of our vacation, mom was the happiest, my dad disinterested, my sister excited to have more vara pavs and I could not help counting every nano-second until the last minute. Cheers to my mom’s addiction to bargain hunting, we ended up stopping at Colaba Causeway – our last shopping jaunt. She kept on fighting with the shopkeepers for a rupee or two and we two (me and my little adorable sister) could not help but gawking. Dad was the only one standing mournfully smoking a cigarette while keeping an eye on mom, or rather her spending!  

Blame the city if I, now, tell you that I became a little less (okay, far less rather) hateful about city ever since I gorged on a plate kheema pav at some roadside corner at Colaba followed by the blue berry cheese cake at the Leopold and most outstandingly, ever since the last day lunch at Mahesh lunch home and brun maska at the Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (Victoria Terminus, then). I, in a few hours, was completely in love with the city’s food. The last thought that crossed my mind when our train was leaving the station (or I was leaving the city, forever) was, ‘how to coax my mom and dad again on my next vacation, is Mumbai too much to ask for?’ I couldn't think of anything after that until we came home as my mom says I was ‘wet with tears and depressed to the core’!

I still keep saying this that I was not really living until I came back to stay in the city years later!

Yes Mumbai was as welcoming as ever when I revisited - not as a tourist, but as someone with a promise not to leave again! Dizziness, uncertainty, fear were translated into ecstasy, gusto, and a dream!

Yet, this time I had a past – of a living in a beautifully planned city – I was coming from the garden city Bangalore where the greens, salubrious weather, elegant layouts and real estate, decent roads and an old world charm meet the modern, pluralistic, tolerant and cosmopolitan culture. Despite all the ‘oh my’s in my kitty, may be, just maybe, this time when I came back, I was a little more hopeful with a little less hang-ups!

I watched the time – it was morning 10 a.m. at Mumbai central - local trains running with people oozing out of its packed compartments – yes, it was still nerve-losing to me but this is when I suddenly picked up joy – joy in noticing the people with different backgrounds, lifestyles, outlooks, age groups travelling together, laughing together, fighting for others’ seat rights and sleeping together till the destination comes.

The roads are still the same, now with more flyovers and sky walkers that I had ever imagined in Bangalore – well, who cares!

The high-rises are now skyscrapers, the slums where sixty percent of Mumbai population are living, are still standing tall (and famous, kudos to Slumdog Millionaire) with dish TV antennae on every metal-sheet roof! Isn't it great to house around 12 million people and still be awesome at the same time! Yes, it definitely is!

The number of cars have skyrocketed to a horrifying number and so is the expanse of traffic, yet that fails to scare me from going to gulch my favourite Bombay sandwich or drive 30 kilometres to watch the sunset at the Marine Drive on my first weekend in the city – yes, I undeniably understand now why ‘it is the most beautiful place on this earth’ (I get it mom!).

With each fleeting day, I was a little more Mumbaite and I wanted to ‘settle down here forever’ and bring my mom to live the life with me and my husband!

Surprisingly, every time we headed back to Kolkata on a holiday to meet our parents, we missed Mumbai (yes, even my husband missed Mumbai, probably, more than I did!) and we kept checking flight rates to plan our return. That’s the ‘Maaya’ (magic) of maayanagri that everyone talks about!

It is not a cakewalk to live in the city, honestly, but, this maaya makes it easy! Mumbai spoils you with choices, you name it and the city has it, no matter what your hunger is for! You get to eat it up right here! You don't feel homesick, you feel ‘which place to explore next’! Neither do you feel like comparing its ugliness to the loveliness of other cities - see the truth is it’s you who make it so! You are surprised by the warmth and kindness of the people here (doesn’t matter if you don't belong here, you will, one day!) Never mind if Mumbai keeps you on your toes, it is this city (plus the people, of course) that gives you enough reason (beyond no power cuts or the rains to get a lovely soak) to feel lovely amidst all that ugliness of life!

I was given outstanding opportunities to work yet stay calm, endless second chances to perfect what I couldn't in the first go, Mumbai embraced me when I hated it the most, it made me who I am today – a human being with a heart filled with patience, forbearance and gratitude!

Yes, I did it! I even created a whole online album dedicated to my beautiful Mumbai and I call it ‘Mumbai Meri Jaan’ (I know that’s cheesy but ‘Jaan’ in a factual sense, you see)!

And when I realise that I left the city more than a month back, it hurts! It hurts to become conscious of what I might have lost – something that is a part of me now! I am feeling like the girl leaving the city years back, because I wouldn't know when I will be back again. And because I know the city won't even notice now when I am gone. And maybe because I am not sure if my new habitat would touch my soul the way Mumbai did – perhaps not – there could only be one soul-mate in each life-time!

Quoting Nonita Kalra, editor of Elle, would perhaps articulate my current feelings just perfectly - I came to Mumbai with just two suitcases and my dreams. …I just wanted anonymity. The freedom to be who I wanted to be. If I changed my mind every single day, so be it…Mumbai - gave me the greatest gift of my life. The confidence to know that I might not be the nicest person in the world but this is who I am. Which is why, the city is my greatest love affair—one I cannot cheat on. Even though I try.