Monday 4 September 2017

Coorg - Where Grass Is Still Green

Another holiday, another road trip, another adventure – the words were echoing loud in my head making it an absolute need of the hour. I counted my remaining three leaves in the bucket. 'Two days clubbed with three holidays will do fine' – proclaimed my partner-in-crime. But 'where are we going?' He fondly narrated Ruskin Bond,  ‘And when all the wars are done, a butterfly will still be beautiful!’ 

Bags – checked, tickets – checked, umbrella and raincoats – checked, camera – checked, warm memories – unquestionably, checked! I, by now, knew, it was the place, close, very close to our hearts – Coorg.

Bangalore was as welcoming as ever, we wondered why we left this amazing place five years back - ambition, I thought, like always!

It was our third trip with ‘zoomcar’ and I was more than happy with a red Honda Amaze awaiting to get started. And as we thought, it was such a treat to drive on NH48 via Mysore. We deliberately took diversions sometimes to click pictures of farmers’ village, roads within, villagers and their errands. There was something about the air, the milieu that brightened our spirits at once. 

A good seven hours road trip was worth every bit - we were in no hurry to reach!

But we reached and when we did, it was way past lunch time! The small town, Madikeri, is full of good restaurants but it was a wrong time. At last, we found a small eatery serving for the last time of the day, we ate to our heart's content. Kodagu cuisine is influenced by the surrounding area and geography with pork dishes being the showstopper. We loved Nool Puttu paired with chicken curry (we don’t eat pork, but if you do, it’s a must try) and spicy mango curry.

A friend was kind enough to welcome us to his homestay right inside his coffee estate, over the hills, amidst the clouds and the rainbow! Oh yes, literally so - It was basic, rustic and effortlessly georgous. The chalet given to us had a wooden balcony overlooking the coffee plantation and a small waterfall. The best part was that it was elevated and we could touch the branches of the tall Avocado tree right in front of us (but not avocados, poor thing)!

“Happiness is a mysterious thing, to be found somewhere between too little and too much.” And Coorg always hits the right balance! The beauty with all its rainstorms and cloudbursts is more tempting than a Switzerland or a Scotland. 

The coffee in the coffee town, sure, has a rawness to it, I initially found it a little too strong for my taste – but like the coorgies say ‘it grows on you’ and yes, it certainly did!  

We visited a couple of touristy places like Abby Falls and Nisargdhama, but honestly, with the swarm of selfie-extremists, none of these places were as enjoyable as we hoped it to be, except the generous tusker which despite the screaming crowd, came out on the sideways to offer us a smile-evoking sight. Triumph! Indeed, wilderness without wildlife is just a landscape!

Note: Please avoid Dubare Elephant Camp – it is a circus where humans come to picnic with wildlife and pay for tormenting these majestic elephants with a joy-ride on its back or feeding them with nothing but straw or bathing them for mindless fun. The worst part is how these wild giants are beaten and poked with iron hooks to get domesticated like a dog or cat. There is nature and wildlife outside of this, into the forest, visit the national parks and sanctuaries – India has umpteen of them, see the magic happen when they are untamed in the unguarded wilderness. Remember, “the wildlife and its habitat cannot speak”, we can, so we must act, we must love, we must save them!

We love birding – not like a birding expert but a bird inquisitive – how they look, fly and chirp – we are curious about all of that. But this time Cicada took our fancy – there are squillions of cicadas in the coffee plantation, all whining in the same rhythm making a sound that can make you deaf if you are too close to them.

Nights were not starry - thick damp mist blinded our vision but added a chill in the air and thrust in the soul - we went for our after-dinner stroll around the hills, sat on the top of one plateau from where the sky looked clear, we did not count the stars - we were too busy gazing at them. 

Into these little spaces, my holidays always defined itself, when life and time stood still, we as gratified as ever – we thank Almighty that not all good things are inflated – some are like nature – wild and free!

Mornings in Coorg are mostly bright and sunny. We woke up to the call of the Malabar Whistling Thrush almost every day. While having our last coffee of the day, we counted one, two, three…one count on each breath for every dew drop dangling from the balcony shed. Perspective: Simple things are beautiful, it makes you humble and is never a waste of time! At around 11 am, we strode down the road, crossed the little bridge and the overflowing waterfall, and reached Madikeri town – here is what we bought - some home-made spices (try coorg pork curry powder – I use them to make coorgy chicken at home), chocolates and my favourite thing in the world – dry fruit honey.

Coorg is like an addiction – addiction to a place where “the grass is still green and the air is still free.” I looked out the window of our car, closed my eyes, the cool gust of wind swept along my skin...I got drowned in an invisible ocean of happiness. And then there was a sudden screech, the man behind the wheels stopped the car, my worldly senses sprang back to senses – ‘why are we stopping here’ – he smiled at me and said – ‘come, the happiness deserves a click!’